銀閣寺 – Ginkaku-ji

Unlike its golden counterpart, Ginkaku-ji (“Temple of the Silver Pavilion”), is much less of a spectacle but still a nice sight.  Built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa in 1482, it was modeled after his grandfather’s Kinkaku-ji as a retirement villa.  And just like his grandfather, Yoshimasa had it converted to a Zen temple after his death in 1490, whereupon it was nicknamed Ginkaku-ji (official name is Jisho-ji).

Despite its name, however, Ginkaku-ji is not silver.  It never was, but it was nicknamed so due to Yoshimasa’s plans to have the exterior of the pavilion covered in silver foil.  Unfortunately, construction of the Ginkaku-ji was halted during the Onin War that brought about the Sengoku Jidai (“Age of the Country at War”), and was delayed for so long that his plans were never fully realized before his death.  What is seen today is believed to be the same as how Yoshimasa last saw it, making it a characteristic image of the Japanese aesthetic best encapsulated in the famous phrase “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete”.

I can’t imagine how it would have looked in its intended silver foil.  Honestly I think the image would have been completely spoiled.  I think it was much better served by the lacquer finish instead, which would have reflected the water of the nearby pond onto its walls.  The sand garden must glisten at night under a clear moon.  According to a local tour guide, the mound represents Mount Fuji and is a key aspect of the garden.

The surrounding landscape gardens are also pristine and pleasant, featuring a variety of mosses.  Both the gardens and the sand garden are rumored to be designed by the famous painter and landscape artist Soami.

Vital Information:

• Open: 8:30 to 17:00 (9:00 to 16:30 from December to February)

• No Closing Days

• 500 yen Admission

• Semi-English Friendly

• Can be reached via Philosopher’s Path from Nanzen-ji; OR Take a Kyoto City bus and get off at Ginkakuji-michi bus stop.