東大寺 – Todai-ji

Any trip to Nara must include a visit to the Todai-ji.  Literally “Great Eastern Temple”, this temple is not only crucial landmark to Nara itself, but it is also a major landmark in Japanese history.  It was built in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan.  In older times,  when war or feuding was common, temples often played a large political role. The Todai-ji was no exception.  In fact, the temple grew so powerful that the capital of Japan which at the time had been in Nara was moved a little more than 30 years after the temple was constructed in order to limit the temple’s influence on government affairs.

The Todai-ji was a little more crowded today than Kasuga Taisha, but not by much.  It appears that this is more of an off-season for Nara sightseeing.  As always, I am struck by the contrast between Shinto and Buddhist structures.

The grounds are impressive.  Everything has a grand, almost majestic feel to it.  The main hall especially, will give you at least a moment of pause based on its sheer size alone.  It is recorded as the world’s largest building at its current size, which is in fact only 2/3 the size of the original hall (was reconstructed in 1692).  I actually forgot how big everything was, especially the Great Buddha statue itself (15 meters tall).  Unfortunately, this is all shadowed by the key draw to Nara which is really to just feed the deer.  Or at least that’s how it seems.

There are some nice signs explaining parts of the hall, but they’re not available for everything.  For example, there is a pillar in the back of the hall with a small hole near its base, and people were lined up to crawl through it.  There was no sign or explanation, so I asked the staff member monitoring the line.  According to him, you crawl through the hall so that you can achieve enlightenment in the next life…and that the hole is not a hole, but the Great Buddha’s nose.

One thing that is extremely apparent is the locals really aren’t kidding about these animals.  They are everywhere (as is their poop), and they are never not hungry.

It’s a big mistake, however, to underestimate these animals and consider them tame.  They might be really used to people (some will even bow for food) and will sometimes even let you pet them, but they will also bite, kick, butt their heads into you, and even chase you.  I personally witnessed a young man experience this for himself today.

Vital Information:

• Open: 8:00 to 16:30 (November to February); 8:00 to 17:00 (March); 7:30 to 17:30 (April to September); 7:30 to 17:00 (October)

• No Closing Days

• 500 yen Admission

• Take the bus and get off at the Todaiji Daibutsuden stop.