Tüköry Étterem, Parliament District (5), Budapest, Hungary — on our Danube cruise

On the final final full day of our Viking river cruise extension stay in Budapest, Nancy and I took a cab down the hill for an early scheduled tour of the Hungarian Parliament. The building is reminiscent of Britain’s Parliament building, but larger and grander. We arrived well beforehand and took the opportunity to explore the exterior close up.

The building is marked by grand and gorgeously decorated rooms,

and the very halls were studded with decorations reflecting the history of Hungary and honoring the various occupations of the people through time.

The building also contains the Crown of St. Stephen, the possessor of which rules Hungary.

We removed it during World War II to keep it out of Stalin’s hands, but returned it during the Carter administration. It is guarded by two burly soldiers armed with sabers that they seem eager to use — a sharp contrast to the soldiers outside the presidential mansion. Photos are not permitted in the room itself — I took this well outside — so I couldn’t capture the impressive changing of the guards of the crown.

Then it was time for lunch — on the Pest side for a change. Nancy and I had received scores of recommendations for restaurants in Budapest. Many, alas, had fallen victim to COVID (I suppose), and we were somewhat constrained by our utter unfamiliarity with the city and our situation atop the Castle Hill, away from the Pest side and central Budapest. What with our very special trip to Mohonk Mountain House, trips to and from the Bay, Independence Day celebrations, other trip arrangements, and a whirlwind of summer camps for the girls, I had really dropped the ball.

Two of the places recommended by Tom Popper, brother of my friend Bob and also of John, as serving authentic Hungarian –I should say Magyar — food were very near parliament. We started walking toward them and I was struck by statues honoring Presidents Reagan and Bush (the father). It was one of many reminders of the difference the fall of the Iron Curtain made to the people of Hungary.

Both restaurants were on the same block of Hold Utca. We chose Tüköry for the carefully considered reason that it was the first one we came to. We sat under shade outside and perused the wide variety of Tüköry’s offerings.

Nancy ordered the Csirkemell Tüköry módra zöldségkörettel. Okay, chicken Tukory style, with tomato, cheese, and vegetables.

Nancy, whose command of Hungarian is, like everyone else outside Hungary, extremely limited, expected a sauce and asked out of curiosity whether it came with rice (there’s always a starch in the USA.). We can do that.  A side of rice appeared along with her unsauced vegetables.

 The vegetables had been lightly steamed and had a texture right in the sweet spot between crunchy and mushy. The chicken breast had been pounded and grilled, topped with an unfamiliar but very tasty cheese, and then finished under the broiler.

I ordered those peppers — a pepper salad, or ecetes almapaprika shown next to the rice — to start, and for my entree chose Marhapörkölt galuskával, or simply Pörkölt.

Pörkölt is the beef and paprika stew that we tend to think of when goulash — a soup of Central Europe — is mentioned. At least I do. That’s what Dear’s “goulash” was like. By any name, the stew was spicy and flavorful — not hot spicy, but with a great depth of flavor  The beef was tender and the beef flavor shone through the seasoning. The raw peppers on top did have some heat. I believe the green one was what we call a Hungarian wax pepper, and the red was a little milder. The noodles had a good mild taste, and went well with the stew.

Lest we forget the paprika salad, the peppers were marinated in a vinegary brine, tart and salty. The peppers kept a fairly firm texture, and were more assertive than bell peppers. I enjoyed them.

This was a very satisfying lunch, with delicious food at a modest price. The service was prompt and friendly, and the setting was just right. Indoors, Tüköry is all warm stained wood and red checkered tablecloths. We preferred to sit outdoors in the shade on the quiet street and enjoy the fine weather along with the delicious and authentic local cuisine. When you go to Budapest, be sure to have a meal at Tüköry.

***

And while you’re at it, click “follow” on our front page to receive blog posts in your email box.  Or bookmark us and check in from time to time.  If you’re planning a trip, you can “Search” the name of the destination city, state, or country for good restaurants (in Europe, often close to sites, like the Louvre or the Van Gogh Museum, that you’ll want to visit in any event).  Comments, questions, and suggestions of places to eat or stories to cover are very welcome.  And check our Instagram and Twitter pages, johntannerbbq.