The Sweeter Side of Texas BBQ

Texas Trinity from The Salt Lick

And Now for Something Completely Different

Don’t get me wrong- I think Texas Barbecue simply has no peer. At the same time, going to KC joints like Q39 and Memphis places like the BBQ Shop have opened my eyes (and taste buds) to other flavor profiles. My preconceived notions of “real BBQ needs no sauce” and “brisket is the standard to judge a BBQ joint” have shifted over the last few years, and every once in a while I crave a slightly sweet or glazed pork rib with that same careful Texas approach to the meat. Unfortunately, as great as Texas BBQ is, the prevalence of Central Texas style often means a more homogenous set of flavors, primarily rubs made up of salt and pepper, with a tangy, tomato sauce for dipping. So if you are in Texas, but want something a bit sweeter, where can ya go? May I recommend- The Salt Lick and The Pecan Lodge!

Beef and Bison Ribs from the Salt Lick

Navigating the Salt Lick

Navigating the menu of the Salt Lick is tricky for one reason- The temptation of all-you-can-eat family style BBQ is alluring. And the sweet pork ribs alone ensure a good time. However, I recommend going with a friend or two and getting a Texas Trinity plate, a beef and bison rib plate, a half-pound of pulled pork, and a half chicken to really get a sampling of the best meats. Every plate comes with the same three sides- well-seasoned but unremarkable beans, a hefty German style potato salad, and a fantastic vinegary slaw. So you will not be stressed out on missing a key side.

The brisket and sausage are respectable, although the latter does not stand out much from any other joint you may come across. It truly is the meat with bones that shine here. They are glazed with a helping of the unique, sweet sauce. Every bite contains a heaping dose of smoke, salt and pepper, and the perfect amount of sweetness topped off with a slight, understated tang. The chicken may very well be the best thing on the menu, with the glaze and rub creating a perfect texture on the skin, and the ubiquitous nature of the poultry lends itself to a litany of flavors anyways, marrying sweet and savory better than almost any meat. However, the beef rib proves that “sweet beef” can be delicious, while the bison rib has a slightly gamey flavor to set it apart from other offerings. The pulled pork remains the best boneless offering, with the tender pork piled in a smoky heap, complete with slightly glazed bits of skin. 

Pulled Pork from the Salt Lick

Return to the Pecan Lodge

If you can get here early, do so! This way, when you order the Trough, you can snag one of their AMAZING beef ribs. Don’t skimp on the sides either, as the mac and cheese in particular stands out with its crumbled bacon. Here, the sweetness comes not from a glaze due to the sweet sauce, but rather a complex rub with a hint of sugar. The brisket really exemplifies this, with the crust on top imbibing each bite with a more subtle sweetness than any of the offerings at The Salt Lick. And while there is sauce at the table, the regular sauce is more standard Texas BBQ fair, which pairs nicely with the sweeter meat. However, it’s the thin apple cider vinegar-based sauce which emerged as a winner for my wife. Douse your pulled pork with some of this juice, and get a taste of Texas meets North Carolina.

The Trough from The Pecan Lodge

The sausage has that homemade grind that I really appreciate in a house-made link. The beef rib is MASSIVE and continues the trend from the brisket, allowing for even more delicious and sweet BBQ bark to pair with the beef. The pork ribs, however, emerged as the favorite, perhaps some of the very best in the state. The sweet rub had formed something more akin to a traditional glaze, yet the rib was not sticky like the ones at the Salt Lick. Instead, the rub imparted a deeper sweetness than the other meats on the plate, and every bite was tastier than the last, although the size of these ribs may limit just how many you can consume. You’ll want to save some room for some truly special banana pudding as well. In the end, if you are a Texan looking for something different or someone from out of state in search of more familiar BBQ, hit these joints up. Oh, and for those Kansas City fans- the Pecan Lodge has burnt ends, seemingly made with the desire to canonize the cliché “Everything is Bigger in Texas.”

LOOK AT THESE BURNT ENDS FROM THE PECAN LODGE