The Chimes Restaurant and Tap Room, Baton Rouge, Louisiana

After out fantastic dinner at Juban’s, Nancy and I got up early and did a 10k state capital walk around Baton Rouge, and it was a hit. We walked past the Huey Long Memorial

to the Capitol building, which is a skyscraper, shown here with my usual slant on things.

The observation deck offers magnificent views of the very green, very low-rise city, the Mississippi, and the refineries. Inside, you can see the bullet holes from the assassination of Huey Long.

We finished up the walk and had a special treat. It turned out that Sally Tanner, my nephew Henry’s better half, was there from Raleigh with Sarah Frances to visit Townsend at LSU for a Mothers’ Weekend — one scheduled not by the university but by Townsend’s fraternity. That’s thoughtful of them. Nancy and I wandered the LSU campus, which is absolutely gorgeous, full of sprawling live oaks and beautiful buildings. I here concede, even as an Alabama fan, that LSU has the prettiest campus I’ve ever seen. Then to the Chimes to meet our Raleigh cousins for lunch.

The Chimes has sat right at the entrance to the LSU campus — at the top of The Strip, or whatever they call it a LSU — for decades. It’s a big place with three levels and a large rooftop deck.

The location of the Chimes is pregnant with implications. These involve the intermingling of the primary gustatory interests of college students, leavened by the expectations of parents who come to take them to lunch or dinner, and the fond memories of returning alumni. In short, it could go either way. Fortunately, we were in Louisiana, well within the Cajun/Creole sphere of influence. I’ll not name the 49 less favored states.

The interior is attractive, warm with stained wood, and there are multiple dining rooms.

We were seated in short order and proceeded to explore the menu. First, boudin balls for the table — very spry boudin balls, most of which sprang away as I was fumbling with my iPhone.

And some boudin egg rolls for the table.

The boudin balls were excellent as were the egg rolls. As a rule, if you make something with boudin, it’s going to be a winner, and this boudin honored local standards.

Proceeding around the table, Nancy had a bowl of gumbo.

Isn’t that pretty? It was thick with seafood, okra, and the trinity. Nancy didn’t offer to share it, which is a huge sign that it lived up to the exalted standards of Louisiana.

Sally and Frances both ordered the barbecue shrimp.

Now, barbecue shrimp has nothing at all to do with barbecue, and this was not the classic version. Classic barbecue shrimp involves whole, head-on shrimp, and perhaps more butter and Lea and Perrins.

As you can imagine, it’s one of the messiest meals around. I had some at Emeril’s some years back and I dearly loved it. Had I known that I could eat the Chimes version without having to buy a new shirt, I’d have ordered it. Sally and Frances were mightily pleased with theirs. Oh, and you’re wondering about that thing in the middle. Tasso grits. You ought to try some.

Townsend ordered chicken and waffles, which I somehow missed or lost, but which he certainly enjoyed. Prompted in part by suggestion from Glen Howard (“Have some étouffée!), I ordered the Catfish Perdu, fried catfish smothered with crawfish étouffée.

The Chimes is locally famous for catfish perdu. The catfish part of the dish was just okay. The last fried catfish I’d had was at Pruett’s, where they fry catfish coated in corn meal, as God intended. The result is much better than batter fried. The étouffée redeemed the dish, however, with layers of good flavor. The flavor was just touch less assertive than I would have liked, but that’s just me, and they do make a hot sauce or two in Louisiana.

The food exceeded my cautious hopes. The highlight, though, was a chance to get together with Sally and Townsend and Frances, three very bright and lively spirits. I wish we could all get together more often. You should, too, with your far flung family, and if you get to Baton Rouge, get together for lunch at the Chimes.

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