Pho 14, Van Ness, Washington, DC

The yo-yo weather in Washington keeps me off balance, but a recent cold, wind-howling day was an inspiration. Perfect for a hot bowl of pho. Well, it had warmed back up to normal by the time Nancy and I got back to Pho 14, which we’d missed during the lockdowns. And pho is good in all weathers.

Pho 14 is the Van Ness offshoot of the Pho 14 on Park Road in Columbia Heights, which I’ve never visited. They feature a wide range of Vietnamese dishes (see the menu) in addition to pho, and they offer chicken and vegetarian versions as well as the traditional beef. There’s something for everyone.

Pho 14 is a quiet space, perhaps in part because, unlike the original, there’s no liquor license. They do a brisk carryout business. For those who eat in, Pho 14 is roomy and comfortable, without a superfluity of decorations. Everything is relaxed and pleasant, and the focus is on the food.

We started with an order of spring rolls.  They were very light and refreshing, with a pleasant flavor.

Continuing the light theme, Nancy ordered the Curry Combination, shrimp and calamari with vegetables in a gentle curry sauce.  

Nancy was very high on the vegetables, the sauce, and the shrimp, but she said that a piece of calamari tasted off. She gave a piece of calamari to me, and I agreed.

I ordered the Pho #2, which came with just about everything, well done brisket, well done flank, fat brisket, tendon, and bible tripe. I enjoyed it immensely. It was a lot of food, with a flavor that was at once rich, clean, light, and aromatic. It hit the spot.

There are lessons here, of caution on the seafood — or a least the calamari — and of wild abandon on the excellent pho. Well, maybe mild abandon. I plan to return, however, and not just for the pho. I’d like to come back in warmer weather and try their banh mi, the Vietnamese sandwiches on French bread. And what else? Tell me what you’ve enjoyed there. If you haven’t been, go try the pho.

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