Perly’s, Richmond, Virginia

I recently saw a Facebook group comment asking for the best Jewish delis with atmosphere on the long drive down I-95 between Boston and Miami. There were lots of suggestions that involved plunging into New York City (from I-95 you might have time to drop down to Pastrami Queen, but the idea of driving in Manhattan … ),

enough that the travelers would never get to Philadelphia (Radin’s near 295 and Famous Fourth Street near 95), much less Florida. I jumped in with Attman’s in Baltimore, and reported that all of the good Jewish delis in the Washington area involved too much of a detour. (If you’ll settle for some great brisket or (on Thursday) a superb pastrami sandwich at 2fifty, but not a bit of Jewish deli atmosphere.)

I’m something of an authority on where to eat along I-95 south of Washington, as per my post on Where to Eat Near I-95 between Washington and Miami, and on to Key West. It lists genuinely good, often great locally owned places within 15 minutes of the interstate all along the route. I advised the poster that south of Washington, Perly’s in Richmond at 111 East Grace Street was the first and last Jewish deli before South Florida — maybe Delray (if you know of others, sing out!). During most of the trip, not even the vegetables are vegetarian, much less Kosher. The closest to a deli is Gary Lee’s in Brunswick, Georgia, with the Israeli flag out front. It’s just Perly’s. Previous reports on Perly’s are here and here, and this one from Senior Deli Correspondent Les Wexler will help give you a better and broader perspective on the place.

Les Wexler, John’s Senior Deli Correspondent here.  I was going to call this review ‘Perly’s Redux,’ as I was there about 2-1/2 years ago as my first review for John.  But, after my lunch there, I figured a better title is ‘Perly’s Re-Duck and Potato Pierogies,’ as that was our appetizer and in my opinion the star of the meal.

I went on an overnight trip to Richmond last week with my lovely wife JoEllen, to meet up with old high school friend Elizabeth Manley and see the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (a great museum, and a fascinating exhibit that will be there through September).  Before heading home Tuesday, we hit Perly’s Jewish Deli at lunchtime.  I wanted to start with an appetizer, and the server asked if I’d like something light?  My response, of course, was if I had wanted something light I wouldn’t have come to a Jewish deli.  And the Potato and Duck Pierogies were anything but light, but they were incredibly delicious. 

I got three big pierogies filled with ground duck and mashed potato, served in a spectacular onion/mushroom gravy.  Heavy?  Yes.  But worth it in flavor.

I had the Jewbano sandwich….yes, it’s a Jewish Cubano. 

Instead of ham and roast pork, it was made with sliced brisket and sliced tongue, also zucchini pickle, Havarti cheese, cherry peppers and mustard, on a pressed sub-roll.  A winner.  JoEllen had the Shapiro Schnitzel, a chicken schnitzel with cauliflower pickle on toasted challah.  And Elizabeth had the Rachel, basically a Reuben but with turkey breast instead of corned beef.

(They use real, day-after-Thanksgiving looking turkey, none of this packaged cold cuts stuff). Sides were a very good potato salad and fries.  And we each had a real chocolate egg cream to drink.  (In case you are not familiar with that elixir of New York, it’s milk, Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup, and seltzer or club soda.  Basically an ice cream soda without ice cream.)

We each packed up half of our sandwiches and brought them home.  The moral of the story is that pierogies as an appetizer can be pretty delicious….and pretty filling.

There you have it from an expert. For a Jewish deli, one with atmosphere, Perly’s is a fine stop and, as it happens, the only stop on the long road south. It’s a must for any stay in Richmond. Please have a meal there and share a report in the comments.

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