Opal, Chevy Chase, Washington, DC

Opal opened, what, a couple of months ago? I initially held off to avoid the shakedown period, and then got tied up with Florida, then North Carolina, and then life. I finally took the bull by the horns, grabbed the tiger by the tail, mixed a batch of metaphors, and made a reservation for two.

Nancy and I strolled up early on a Wednesday night and were escorted to a table in the upstairs dining room. Nancy and I come from hardy pioneer stock and did cartwheels up the stairs, but if you have accessibility issues, inform them when you reserve. Maybe they have an elevator? The upstairs is smaller, only 20 chairs, and quieter than downstairs, with well-spaced tables. There’s also a small bar, and, well …. Downstairs

was lively with lots of tables, a longer bar, and a generally young crowd upstairs and down, but it seemed quiet enough as we passed through.

We were greeted both upstairs and down by the owner and the manager (I didn’t ask titles), and throughout everyone was very friendly and attentive. Our server Carlos explained the drill: there’s a set menu of three small plates to which you can add any entree, along with two shared plates. Or you can order a la carte among, at our dinner, eight appetizers (“a few things to try”), four vegetables, and six entrees. Cocktails, bread service, wine, and dessert are extra. The menu is seasonal and so changes as local produce, on which they rely, is available, as well as when other vagaries of availability change. As a sample, the menu for our dinner is here. Scroll down for beverages.

I had my usual cocktail — it was very good, if not on the Homeric scale of the Pelican Cafe or La Ferme, but then heroics can be dangerous. Nancy had her usual cabernet, which she found entirely satisfactory. We discussed the menu. Nancy didn’t want a lot of food, and preferred a la carte. I thought about the set dinner until Carlos said the servings are designed for two, but I can …. Not wanting to cause trouble, I immediately said that I’d order a la carte in order to try a couple of things I actually preferred over the set menu.

Nancy started with ricotta dumplings with brown butter, squash, and calabrian chilies. This was a generous serving, and it was an unusual (for us) approach to winter squash, but it certainly worked. The richness of the ricotta dumplings balanced the squash, and brown butter is a sure winner.

I started with clams with saffron tagliatelle, which was made with garlic, crushed red pepper, and fresh parsley. And kale. There should be a warning label. Opal actually makes kale taste quite good, although I dislike the texture. The pasta was graced with a flavor-packed smooth sauce that blended beautifully with the clam broth and seasonings.

For her entree, Nancy chose the rainbow trout, which came with a lemon-dill beurre blanc, forest mushrooms, and mashed potatoes or, if you prefer pommes purée.

Nancy was a little dubious about mushrooms with fish, but she loved the combination. She enjoyed the fish, the sauce, and the potatoes, the entire dish. I can verify that it was delicious. It looks a little lonely on the plate there, but Nancy actually commented, “This is a lot of trout, really.”

I chose the “roasted beef stripling,” which came with roasted squash, chestnuts, and winter greens.

Around here, “winter greens” generally translates as kale, so I asked whether I could substitute another vegetable for the kale. Carlos: Why, certainly. Would spinach (which was not part of any dish on the menu) be okay? Me: Excellent. I’d serendipitously tested the kitchen’s flexibility, and especially by offering something off-menu, Opal passed the test with flying colors.

So did the spinach. It was just full of flavor. I like spinach well enough, but it’s not exactly a star quality dish. This time it left my expectations far behind. You can only get that result from unusually fresh spinach and unusually close, skilled attention.

The beef itself was very tender and juicy, with lots of flavor, a good crust, and that seductive beef aroma. Prime beef makes such a difference. The beef arrived cooked, oh, maybe a minute past my peculiar definition of rare (just past blue), but it was delicious. The squash. chestnut puree, and of course the lovely spinach all went beautifully with the meat, and the sauce tied it all together. This was a fine dish

I ordered a dish of the roasted carrots with smoked feta, dill, and pickled shallots. Ordering vegetables gives me the delusion of virtue.

The bold flavor of the carrots hit me immediately. Bold flavor of carrots? Yes, a very interesting, very good flavor — plus the smoky feta. I asked the upstairs manager how it was seasoned, and got not only the answer — za’atar, sumac, and coriander seed — but a pleasant chat. I was very impressed both by the dish and by the service.

The table next to us ordered the set dinner. It seemed well paced through the three small tasting courses and the presentation of the entrees and sides. The vegetarian entree looked quite large, and, indeed, the servings at Opal run generous. I could make a meal, a lunch anyway, of the clams and tagliatelle, especially if I could substitute that remarkable spinach for the merely good kale. Nancy couldn’t finish her ricotta dumplings (I had to help), and as noted, she commented on the generous trout. We ended up taking most of the carrots home, where they were devoured the next day.

A stylish setting, soft jazz, excellent service, and inventive, expertly prepared dishes make Opal a fine addition to the neighborhood. I’ll probably go back for the set dinner some time, but you can have a lovely meal with a starter or two without having to refinance your mortgage. Go see for yourself.

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