Mohonk Mountain House, New Paltz, New York

What a wonderful place!

The grand castle-like building was built in stages from 1869 through 1910, by a family of Quakers, and it is historic not only for its age and grandeur, but as the site of peace conferences that led to the League of Nations. There have been some additions and many updates and renovations since then, but the heart of Mohonk remains.

We were there to celebrate Nancy’s birthday with Liza and Michael and our granddaughters, Ella (6) and Lily (4). Our dear friends Scott and Julie Hammons and son Hudson (8) also were there, and what a grand time we all had!

I said there have been changes and I’ll get to a major change right away. The Quaker heritage long was reflected in plain, hearty … heavy food. The food has been transformed dramatically. The food now is one of the glories of Mohonk. I previewed this sweet pea espuma appetizer with crab, lobster, and caviar.

Isn’t that pretty? It tasted even better than it looks. And here’s a delicious beef tartare starter —

Nancy loved this wild-caught halibut with comté  garlic purée, golden raisins, and a citrus beurre blanc.

Of course, you may want something hefty after a day of hiking. Here’s a nice rare strip steak with creamed spinach and an inventive (and delicious) mustard potato purée, with sauce Perigourdine (and truffles).

There was plenty of that steak for everyone to get a sample — or several samples — which were greeted by oohs! and aah! around the table.

The food is creative (chiles in mashed potatoes!), thoughtfully seasoned, and well executed. And the range of offerings at the buffet breakfast and lunch is remarkable. I enjoyed ceviche, a bouillabaisse with a fine rouille, pasta with a lobster sauce, little muffulettas, Reubens, and Cubanos, as well as my share of the normal mega-cornucopia of breads, salads, and roasts of a major Sunday brunch.

All of this is served in the grand Main Dining Room, a gorgeous room of wood and brick that brings nature inside,

and offers majestic views outside.

As an alternative to the seated breakfast, there’s a self service option in the lakeside room

that features the wide choice of items you’d expect at a fine hotel and — this will be hard to believe — pans of bacon, each strip perfectly crisp. Honest, every single one! Each afternoon the same room hosts a tea service with, as Nancy put it, “the “best selection of herbal teas ever,” along with cookies (the shortbread cookies are sensational) and hot chocolate.

The food is outstanding these days, but the real glory of Mohonk is the setting graced by a deep, clear lake and 1,900 acres carved out by the rugged artistry of the glaciers. The scenery is spectacular, with high bare rock ridges,

and, on the top of the highest ridge, a tower that offers breathtaking views.

The resort is dotted with small summer houses, each with a gorgeous and soothing view.

The views are accessible by a wide variety of trails, ranging from truly strenuous to gentle. To get to the stone tower you can clamber over boulders, take a steepish direct route, or wander a gently rising trail through a forest bedecked with blooming mountain laurel. Each of the scores of walks around the property and the thousands of preserved acres beyond is a “forest bath,” a connection with nature that progressively sharpens your awareness of your surroundings and lowers your blood pressure.

Wherever you are at Mohonk, you’re connected to nature. In fine weather, lunch is served outdoors on the ridge overlooking the lake, and the warm wood and stone interiors of Mohonk bring nature indoors. Each window looks out over the lake or the ridges and valleys of the Hudson Valley.

Mohonk also offers pedal boats, kayaks, rowboats, and canoes,

fishing equipment, tennis, pickleball, basketball, archery, and axe throwing(!). Swim from a beach, a pier, and a raft on the lake, or in the large indoor pool.

A real gem is the Kids’ Club. It’s a delight. The Kids’ Club offers multiple two-hour sessions throughout the day led by enthusiastic counselors. There are nature walks where children see, touch, and learn about the local flora and fauna, and are introduced to and taught arts and crafts. A highlight is an evening session starting at 7:00 pm that entertains the kids while the grownups enjoy a relaxed dinner in the main dining room. The evening session ends just in time of the kids to return for dessert and resume family time. After that, there’s broadly appealing live music or other live entertainment, including a good juggler who was a great comedian, and left everyone in stitches.

All of this is included in the room price. You simply show up, sign for a canoe, and paddle away. Of course there are fees for the spa, horseback riding, golf, and alcohol (it’s a family resort, not Club Med). You can pay more for the in-kitchen Chef’s Table tasting dinner. Everything else is included, and you can take advantage of everything without a care for cost.

Cost is … reasonable considering. l’ve reported on a good number of outstanding resorts, usually at beaches — St. Kitts, St Thomas, Key Largo, Key West, and Marco Island, some more costly per night than all-inclusive Mohonk. Each is very special, each a place for a wonderful vacation, and each has great food within reach, for a price. For a very hefty price if you want to match the quality at Mohonk at every meal for every person on every day of your stay. You can get some of the services (boating) and activities (fishing — not sure about axe throwing), for a price. Matching the full Mohonk experience, however, would be a trick.

What you can’t get is the connection to nature, to a spectacular landscape carved by nature, by the Hand of God. It’s a marvel only gently and thoughtfully touched in a way that heightens your awareness and appreciation of the environment. And you leave enriched.

Do you deserve a great vacation with sumptuous food and exquisite amenities in a gorgeous location? Me neither, but what the heck. I went and you should, too. You’ll leave well fed, well exercised, and relaxed.

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