Mama Jean’s, Roanoke, Virginia

Whoa! This is a good one! So good that Robert Moss of Southern Living named it one of the 50 Best Barbecue Joints in the South! Our intrepid Senior Correspondent of the DC area to Winston-Salem Corridor Chris Heim, on the track again, and this time discovered Mama Jean’s BBQ at 3404 Brandon Avenue, SW, in Roanoke. Hold on to your hat! This is a good one!

Maryann and I decided to visit a couple of places we had yet to spend time in: Roanoke and Asheville. Maryann, our Planner-In-Chief, had done some research that included interesting-looking places to eat as a nod to her partner in crime, yours truly. That is how our first stop in Roanoke, Virginia, became Mama Jean’s BBQ.

It was a bit challenging to find the place. It took a couple of wrong turns before we found this food truck (to be precise, a 1956 AirStream Food Trailer).

We didn’t realize it could only be found by first entering a gravel driveway adjacent to what we discovered was the under-construction site of its future brick-and-mortar home.

We arrived late in the lunch hour, around 1:30 pm on a Sunday, and parked in the small parking area next to the bare bones of the coming restaurant and about 25 yards from the food truck. Right away, we noticed a considerable line to place orders, both an encouraging sign and a discouraging discovery for these two hungry travelers all at once. Standing in line offered us the chance to make lunch selections and take in the scene. To our left were several chalk menu boards attached to, or leaning on, the trailer on the left. Items that had sold out for the day were conveniently crossed out to give customers a real-time look at what was available. At the front of the line stood a rectangular picnic table from which a friendly cashier took orders and payment. To our right was where all the goodness was happening! The AirStream Food Trailer churned out orders as quickly as possible while festive music was piped out of speakers and customers rounded out their orders with plastic utensils and napkins, as well as a selection of barbecue sauces, all resting on another picnic table. In the background stood a wood smoker. [Ed.: That smoker is outstanding in its field.]

And five picnic tables for customer seating adorned the lawn area on which the food truck operation took up residence. Though the line moved more slowly than we’d have liked, we attributed this to the fact that one person was taking orders and payment and distributing completed orders to customers waiting for their food. When we reached the front of the line and placed our orders, we learned that a barbecue platter does not come in sandwich form (word to the wise), but that a Martin’s potato bun would be added upon request. Our order? A brisket platter,

with mac and cheese

and pinto beans,

and a pulled pork sandwich (both served with Martin’s buns for this sandwich fanatic.)

The brisket was outstanding. It arrived thicklysliced, melt-in-your-mouth tender, and very generously portioned. It was a slightly fatty cut, but not overwhelmingly so. It was crispy around the edges, providing a nice contrast in textures. I added both pickle rounds and pickled red onions, as well as a homemade pepper vinegar barbecue sauce, which leaned more toward a vinegar flavor than a pepper one for those concerned with adding too much heat.

The pulled pork sandwich was delicious as well. It was also served with generous portions. I added the same pickles and onions to this item, as well as a “Sweet Virginia Heat” barbecue sauce. Similar to the pepper vinegar sauce, this one was more sweet and less heat. The same held true for the pinto beans, which were also smooth in consistency but included pulled pork, adding to both the flavor and the texture. Writing this review has been a bit of an exercise in self-torture; even just reviewing my notes and the photographs of the food we ate has made me eager to return to this hidden gem. Unfortunately for me (but perhaps not for my waistline), the 3.5-4 hour distance by car likely means it will be some time before I can enjoy Chef Madison’s delicious fare again. For your sake, I hope you are passing through Roanoke and can enjoy what Mama Jean’s has to offer sooner!

I’m excited about Mama Jean’s, not only because they cook exclusively with wood and will, I trust, soon have a brick and mortar I can certify, but also because they have some other great menu items. Brunswick stew, of course, but also South Carolina’s iconic hash and rice, boudin balls(!), and much else. Do give this spot a try, and let us know what you think!

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