Madeline Island

I took a few extra days off pre-Christmastime, to get ready for the holiday for once and like, hey: maybe I can squeeze in a minute to relax and do things I wanna do? And here we are, at the end of Day Two, and all my holiday cookie doughs are prepped and shopping/wrapping is done AND I’m finally getting some blogging in (and also omg my kitchen floors are way less disgusting after a good scrubbing that was necessary at least 3 months ago*…). So hey yeah, I guess it really is progress!

(*Random side note but one of my crazy cleaning projects has been cleaning out drawers in the kitchen/bathrooms and in “my” drawer in the main bath: I found, way in the back, a dusty-pink pin-on giant flower, from circa 2000 when Carrie wore those flowers on Sex and the City, and you guys but why have I been stubbornly including this in various bathroom drawers for the last 20 years??)

ANYWAY HERE I AM. Why is 2021 as chaotic as 2020 and also as long as we’re on the subject, as 2000 too in a way, I want to ask the universe! 2000 and Y2K aftermath and hanging chads! At least in 2000 I personally had the excuse of being a very-early-twenties “adult” making bad bohemian-luxe choices because FASHION.

Where was I. Oh, yes! Summer, 2021. This summer that was vaguely better than 2020, but not really when you really think about it, but anyway we tried (?). This summer for our vacation we did a small series of side trips in addition to our lake time, one of which was a quick day thing to Madeline Island.

Kinda like Washington Island but not as genuine (sorry, but true) but maybe kinda more beautiful (sorry, but again: true). ANYWAY! MORE FERRY TIME FOR US! Linus the seasoned pro ferry tripper at this point, sporting a fashionable stuffie spider chapeau.

Also I would like the world to know that on this very trip, he shamelessly dribbled neon-colored ice cream all over that shirt and I could never get the stains out and he never wore it again because it is now thoroughly trashed.

ANYWAY. WE ARE SEASONED FERRY PEOPLE NOW.

Madeline Island is an island in Lake Superior, the largest of the Apostle Islands but not an official member of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. It was originally populated by the La Pointe band of the Ojibwa, and their native language is also posted alongside English.

One of the big draws on this island is the shoreline, specifically the shoreline of the state parks. We ended up at Big Bay that morning, plenty of parking and a short walk to a great boardwalk and stretch of beach.

A lot of colorful rocks hiding in that lakeshore…

Pete was all about drinking the water here and while I wouldn’t exactly encourage it: given how clean the water is in the area (and the natural spring water found in towns dotting the Lake Superior coast, like at our lake house) I can’t say I blame him.

There’s always something very Pacific Northwest to me in the tall pines and the water of this area.

After a spell at the beach, we drove around the length of the island, making a full loop and taking in all the sights. My one regret was not hunting down the La Pointe “Indian” cemetery, but in my defense: the kids were hangry.

Eventually we made it back to La Pointe town center, to do some shopping and hunt down a late lunch.

Joke was on us, it turns out! Because we were visiting randomly mid-week, most restaurants were closed (most open for the weekends for tourists). And because it was after normal lunch hours, the few spots open for lunch normally were already shut down or sold out for the afternoon. We were, however, able to get the kids each a cone at the local pizza place (sold out of pizza at that point) before they closed shop for the day.

Then while they enjoyed their ice creams, we walked them down to the last place standing, which was naturally: Tom’s Burned Down Cafe.

This place can only be seen to be believed, an oasis on an otherwise closed island. It’s a quirky bar, located on the space where a once brick-and-mortar bar once stood, but had unfortunately burned down in the 1990s. On the ashes, Tom pulled up a trailer and started selling beer out of it, or so the story goes. What has emerged from there over time is an open-air, haphazard collection of decks and bars. From the laid back vibe to the philosophical quotes sprinkled everywhere, it’s pretty unique. As we walked up, Scott and I both muttered that it was the type of place that would be right at home in Larryville.

Scott got a local beer and I ordered their “trash margarita”, which is the most accurate way to describe a rail drink that I have ever encountered.

Love it. I may not find the island as lovely as Washington Island, but Tom’s sure holds a place in my heart, as does the gorgeous beachfront.

After our drinks, we stopped at the tiny town market, where I snatched up some snacks to eat on the ferry ride back to the mainland.

Moose loves a good ferry ride.

There you go, friends! I hope to come back again soon, only time will tell. Will update again soon, MAYBE EVEN TOMORROW WOW WHAT A WORLD AM I RIGHT.