Lunch at Le Chat Noir, Tenleytown, Washington, DC

There was a brief flurry of pro and con about Le Chat Noir on the neighborhood listserv, as well as widely varying reviews on various internet sites. Intrigued, I decided to go for lunch by myself, but was distracted by earlier-opening Coffee Nature (I had to get back to pick up Lily at preschool) and put off the trip. The estimable Bob Berendt, a longtime friend, suggested Le Chat Noir as a location for our monthly men’s group meeting. Excellent idea, Bob!

Off we went. It was a lousy day, a grim about the mouth, damp, drizzly November in my soul day, so we had a choice of tables as we straggled in. Le Chat Noir is a small, cozy place, unobtrusively decorated, a welcome respite from the cold and damp. We ordered a variety of beers — I chose a Kronenbourg 1664, which was a far cry from my usual IPA, but it was a nice change, cold, crisp, and refreshing. The day was looking up.

Bob Leland asked if we should pay for our own bills, and that created a stir. We always split the bill evenly, and the prospect of having to do math or force our server to separate the checks was terrifying. And for what? Did Bob plan to order something expensive, thereby starting an endless escalation in ordering? Bob retreated and we all ordered sandwiches.

A sandwich lunch isn’t really a test of a French restaurant, but there were some positive signs. The last time I had lunch at Le Chat Noir was with former Justice Department colleague Andy Strojny. I’d ordered a merguez sausage and it came on a brioche roll, perhaps the worst possible bread for a merguez sausage. The sandwich came without any harissa and, while the sausage itself was good, it was a pale shadow compared with the versions I’d enjoyed previously, mainly at Parisian stands. I think my first was outside the stadium before the World Rugby Championship. No alcohol allowed in the stadium, and fans somehow managed to carry as many as four large cups of beer each as they approached the stadium entry, and to consume the beer(s) quickly before presenting their tickets. The pile of empty cups was large enough to be visible from space. The European focus on skill at balancing multiple large cups contrasts with the USA approach of advanced flask technology.

I decided to give the Le Chat Noir another chance and ordered the Merguez Frites ($19.95).

Bob B. ordered a Croque-Madame, ($17.95).

while Bob L. and Frank McAuliffe each ordered the Normand ($17.95), ham and brie on a baguette with butter and cornichons.

We were focused on absent friends, Ken DeCell (under the weather) and Willie King (in Florida avoiding the weather), and on solving the problems of the world. We didn’t discuss the food much. I can say that the baguettes were good quality, and a good baguette is a joy indeed, as recognized by UNESCO. Bob B. volunteered that he enjoyed his croque-madame, and who wouldn’t with that pretty egg sitting on top. Sigh.

Let’s take a closer look at my merguez.

My merguez sausage was a vast improvement over the one I’d had on my previous visit. The switch from brioche to baguette was a major plus in itself. The baguette, moreover, was graced with Dijon mustard and some harissa, both of which added not only some punch, but additional layers of flavor. Yet another flavor was provided by feta cheese, hiding below the sausage. Finally, the sausage itself was seasoned with authority and balance, another big improvement.

This is a much better place for lunch than before, and you’ll be in luck if Le Chat Noir crosses your path around lunch time. It’s not the cheapest lunch in town, but you deserve it. As to dinner, that must await another test or two. Meanwhile, let me know your experience there.

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