Kuchyň, Prague Castle District, Prague, Czech Republic

Viking gave us a lovely bus and waking tour of Prague the morning after our arrival. We were bused to Old Town, walked about and saw and learned about the main sights in Old Town, many of which we’d seen before in our peregrinations after our delightful lunch at Next Door by Imperial. The bus then went up the hill to Prague Castle, the largest castle in the world. It contains a cathedral, a palace, and many other buildings — too many buildings to tour or even enter in one morning.

The next morning Nancy and I, fortified by a great breakfast on board — I’m going to write about the food on the cruise, as I did re: our Rhine cruise — took a cab back up to the castle and toured the St. Vitus Cathedral, with this gorgeous window by Mucha,

and the Lobkowiz Palace, with this private chapel,

and, among many other things, paintings by Bruegel, Canaletto, and Velázquez. We also toured a hall large enough for knights on horseback to joust indoors, a goldsmith’s street, and three or four other churches and sundry other noble buildings. The castle covers something like 750,000 square feet.

You can work up an appetite that way. Fortunately we’d identified a place to eat, Kuchyň. The only problem was that we had no idea where it was. Several people said it was “right. behind the statue,” which was not a big help in a sea of statues. We wandered about a good bit until we stumbled upon the grand entrance to the castle, far from the tour bus entrance where we’d been dropped by both bus and taxi. The address is Hradčanské náměstí 186-1, for those who understand Prague addresses.

It’s a casual place, with a mix of tourists, families, and people from nearby offices. Oh, and is it well situated! What a view! We were greeted warmly and, while there’s much seating indoors, Nancy and I eagerly snagged seats at one of a line of picnic tables overlooking the city

and Petrin Hill and its famous tower.

We sat in the shade cooked by a gentle breeze and, aided by water and beer for me, looked over the menu. Nancy started with a bowl of potato soup,

and what a soup it was! In addition to potatoes and sundry vegetables, it had delicious mushrooms. I had a sip and found it had a, rich, complex, and outstanding flavor. Other diners around us also ordered the soup, and one couple had a large tureen brought to their table.

I, meanwhile, ordered a chicken liver pâté, which arrived on fingers of toasted bread with plumpureeand almonds, and a scattering of microgreens. It tasted just as good as it looked.

Isn’t that pretty? The pâté was delightfully seasoned to counter the livery edge to the flavor, and the almonds were a nice touch for flavor and texture.

Nancy followed with beef in red wine sauce with carrots, onions, mushrooms.

And I chose — as my entree — pork with sauerkraut, bread dumplings, and fried onion.

And here’s the dumpling. A large dumpling, about 35% of the size of a baguette.

Both dishes were well conceived and well executed. The meat in both dishes was fork tender and graced with exquisite sauce. AS I ate, it occurred to me that a Czech dumpling, bland and unprepossessing in appearance as it is, may actually be the center of Czech cuisine. It’s the perfect vehicle to soak up the gravy and juice of the meats that seem to dominate Czech cuisine. The dumplings aren’t there for the meats, but the meats and their juices are there for the dumplings. The meat was delicious, but as I looked around our Czech fellow diners, all seemed to be focused on soaking up flavor with those bland but absorbent dumplings. I joined in con brio. When in Prague.

After lunch, Nancy and I walked down the hill and across the river, meandering through lively neighborhoods, the places that you don’t see on tour, but that give a warm idea of the daily lives of the … Praguers. That’s the correct term for Prague residents, but it seems …banal, unworthy of the people who make Prague a great and lovely city. Let’s say Pragueoisie. Much better. Nancy and I proceeded through the Jewish Quarter, toured the astounding — and I mean really astounding collection of medieval art at the Convent of St. Agnes, and thence back to the hotel.

Kuchyň is the perfect topping to a visit to Prague Castle. It’s friendly. It’s relaxing, even soothing, with the lovely views. The service is prompt and professional. And the food is just right. It was a highlight of our time in Prague. When you go to Prague, you have to see Prague Castle. And then you’ll need to go to Kuchyň. Enjoy.

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