I’m Eddie Cano, Chevy Chase, Washington, DC

I’ve been a fan of I’m Eddie Cano since they opened, and also of the Italian Bar, their Italian-style coffee-gelato-panini-pizza-aperitif-wine-digestif bar a couple of doors down. They also have a Roman-style pizza place, Bocca al Lupo, in Glover Park, that I’m eager to try. I’d mentioned to Nancy that I was eager to return and she promptly set a date to go with our good friends, Frank and Lisa McAuliffe (see here for Lisa’s delicious salmon recipe). Frank you know from our monthly lunch group.

It was a rainy evening, but the omens were favorable, as Frank found a free space right in front of the restaurant. We entered, received menus and water, and looked at the wine list. Nancy had a glass of Montepulciano and I noted that the wines by the glass cost half the price of a carafe, which I assumed was two glasses. I ordered a carafe of Sangiovese and Frank ordered a carafe of the Langhe Rosso. The carafes actually contain 500 ml., which is a bit more than a pint, so it was a jolly evening.

We ordered, Nancy chose the Melanzane, baked eggplant parmigiana with mozzarella bufalo,

while Lisa ordered the Spigola, striped bass over smoked eggplant and cherry tomatoes.

Frank ordered the Bolognese, which came with pappardelle,

and I started with the Polo, grilled octopus with a basil-rich caponata and taggiasche olives.

Not a great angle. I followed with the Mezzo Maniche (“half sleeve” pasta), with Italian sausage, a broccoli rabe puree (!) and pecorino.

The server noted that the servings wouldn’t be large, and wisely suggested that the others order an appetizer or side, and that prompted an order of garlic bread.

Meanwhile, the bread service had arrived with olive oil. The bread was good enough, a bit dry. The olive oil helped, but they should contact Manifest Bakery, my new heart throb, instead. Actually, everyone should.

Our plates arrived. I enjoyed both my octopus and my pasta. The octopus was tender and flavorful, enhanced by the thick caponata, and went especially well with the tiny but aromatic and fruity taggiasche olives — a flavor much like intense kalamatas.

The pasta dish was outstanding. I have often written about the delights of the Italian sausage and broccoli rabe combination, and I’m Eddie Cano consistently prepares it beautifully, with the right amount of garlic and pepper. I was surprised to see the broccoli rabe as a puree, but the result was excellent. The puree coated the pasta thoroughly and, I think, helped the crumbled sausage adhere, making each bite a balance of all three flavors. This was a great meal.

Nancy was enthusiastic about her eggplant parmigiana, as was Lisa equally happy with her striped bass, although there was a small undercooked portion on one side that she chose not to eat. Frank thought that the Bolognese tasted good, but it seemed not to have had that long, slow simmer, perhaps with an overnight rest, that gives a truly great Bolognese sauce its great depth of flavor, that really makes it pop.

I note that I was served both appetizer and entree at the same time. As the only one who ordered an appetizer, I take part of the blame, as otherwise, everyone would have had to sit and watch me eat while they waited for their entrees. I would have shared, of course, but octopus doesn’t have the universal enthusiasm of other foods, and in the event everyone refused my offer to try some. As it was, the pasta held up while I ate the appetizer, and the dish stayed nice and hot. The labor shortage continues, and I am very sympathetic to the layers it adds to the heap of problems restaurants face, and can overlook small things. By the way, I’m Eddie Cano is very up front, literally, about the hospitalty charge that si so common now. It was announced by the server, and it’s prominent on their en site, with a very detailed and thoughtful discussion of the reasons and realities.

I’m Eddie Cano is a pleasant place full of happy diners on each occasion I’ve visited. It and the Italian Bar are a valuable part of the neighborhood. The Italian Bar has the best coffee around, and lots of other treats, not least gelato. I’m Eddie Cano did a particularly great job during the lockdowns (remember the robots!), and now they offer wine tastings, cooking lessons, and other events, along with a warm welcome. And some terrific food. I’ll be back there soon for another fine meal before long. You should go, too. Try the Mezzo Maniche, and let me know where I can find taggiasche olives.

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