Hiking the Sargan Tracks to Skakavac Waterfall

Mokra Gora, Serbia

After nearly a week in Belgrade, Mac and I made one more stop in Serbia before continuing our tour of the Balkans. The town of Mokra Gora is nestled amidst nearby mountains and has some pretty unique offerings for visitors. Though the town is small – less than 600 people – in recent years it has become increasingly popular and for us, it made a great pit stop on our way to Sarajevo. The most popular activity in Mokra Gora is riding the Šargan Eight train. Although a relatively short ride distance-wise, this train ride is one for the books. With several hairpin turns and one full figure eight, this narrow gauge train line snakes up the mountainside – over bridges and through tunnels – with several pit stops at stunning vistas along the way.

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Unfortunately for us, the train was fully booked and we were unable to secure tickets. Fortunately for us though, we found out about a trail that follows the tracks then breaks off towards a waterfall! There were a few precarious moments, but I definitely enjoyed hiking the Sargan Tracks to Skakavac waterfall!

Hiking the Sargan Tracks to Skakavac Waterfall

From Train Tracks…

We followed the road out of Mokra Gora and took a side road that passed by an idyllic farm – complete with cute little ponies grazing! The road ended at an open air train museum and we could even see the Šargan Eight train way up the hillside! We followed the river, past a quaint little church on the embankment, before joining up with the trail.

We followed the tracks for a kilometer or so before we came across our first obstacle of the day: a tunnel. With no clear trail around or over the tunnel, we were left with only one option – walk along the tracks and pray the train doesn’t come. Using the knowledge that we had seen the train high upon the hill already, we knew that it would be a while before it made it back to Mokra Gora. So, we ran quick like rabbits using our phones as flashlights all while trying not to stumble on the rail ties and made it out the other side unscathed.

A few bridge crossings later we came upon a second, much longer, tunnel. The first one was 50m, while this one was well over 250m. With alcoves every 50m, and hoping that we were right about our train timetable prediction, we again made a run for it. I’d stop periodically to listen for the train and to feel the rails for vibration with vague memories from the movie Stand by Me where the boys were nearly run off a bridge by a freight train replaying in my mind. Just the kind of thoughts you want to accompany your scenic hike, eh?

…To Waterfalls

Eventually we broke from the train tracks and followed the trail as it led into the forest and eventually along the river Kamisina. The sun shining through the trees paired with the beautiful birdsong made me all but forget about the heart-pounding tunnel ordeal from earlier.

After a number of precarious rock-hopping situations, we finally made it to Skakavac waterfall. We perched on a boulder at its base and ate our lunch while getting misted by the falls. I couldn’t have asked for a better hiking reward!

Fully sated and satisfied, we made our way back to Mokra Gora. We crossed those bridges and traversed the tunnels yet again. (And I nearly had a heart attack when Mac’s sudden jog into the tunnel when I was halfway through was a dead ringer for wheels on the track and I panicked like a deer in headlights.)

We took a different way back to Mokra Gora, choosing to stop in a small village made famous by Bosnian-Serbian filmmaker Emir Kusturica. The wooden houses, flowering trees, and cobbled streets made for a very picturesque post-hike stop.

Hiking the Sargan Tracks to Skakavac waterfall wasn’t the most strenuous or scenic trail I’ve ever hiked, but it certainly was unique and memorable. I’m happy Mac and I were able to see a different area of Serbia, one outside the hustle and bustle of Belgrade.

Tell me, have you ever hiked through a train tunnel?

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