Hermes Bites Pop-up at the Little Beast, Chevy Chase, Washington, DC

Remember when Taqueria Xochi had a pop-up at the Little Beast at 5600 Connecticut? Xochi has gone on to a well-regarded brick and mortar place on U Street. Now Little Beast is incubating another aspiring restaurant, this time it’s Jose Cab’s Hermes Bites.

The Hermes Bites Pop-up offers 10 sandwiches with a wide variety of breads, fillings, and, notably, sauces,

and two “mini-bites” as well as a limited selection of soft beverages. It’s open Monday through Thursday from 9:00 am to 2:30 pm.

As soon as I heard about it, I went up to investigate. After looking over the menu I chose the BLTavo described above.

It arrived in good time and, notably, cut in half with the halves wrapped separately — a nice touch for those who want to split a sandwich or save half for later.

I opened mine, took a bite, and had zero interest in doing either — sharing or saving.

Here’s what I liked about it. The French bread was excellent with a good flavor and texture — miles better than the normal soft roll that you usually get on a long sandwich. The bacon was crisp and, well, it was bacon. What more need one say?

The avocado was perfectly ripe and soft, and the lettuce was fresh and crisp. The aioli was absolutely fantastic. I am skeptical of departures from the traditional Hellmann’s or Duke’s mayonnaise on BLTs, but that aioli knocked it out of the park.

And the sandwich was right-sized, not so overstuffed that it becomes a project rather than a meal, but rather just right for lunch. How could it be improved? The tomato, not being a local summer tomato, didn’t add anything to the sandwich. On the other hand, it did no harm.

The sandwich comes with chips, which I declined. We’re just back from 17 days in France and I’m on my pretty good behavior. Fries may be an option. I’ve heard as much, but wasn’t interested at the moment and didn’t inquire.

Hermes will be there for about four months, and these are not ordinary sandwiches. Definitely give them a try or two.It should be around for several months, but don’t wait. Sit onside or on the deck, as I did, where I met and had a nice chat with Robert Gordon.

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