Heritage India, Cathedral Heights, Washington, DC

I was at loose ends with Nancy occupied with her buddies, and took the chance to go out for lunch. This time I went to Heritage India.

The restaurant sits at 3238 Wisconsin Avenue, just up from the National Cathedral, part of a fine cluster of restaurants. Across Macomb Street are Cactus Cantina and 2 Amy’s, and a few doors down sits La Piquette. It’s also the former location of the Zebra Room where we often went with other couples on Friday night for burgers and stuffed potato skins after we’d dropped off the kids at an almost-unsupervised gymnasium at Maret School. After a couple of hours we’d retrieve them with nary a broken bone nor a tear among them. Child Services never found out.

Heritage India has occupied that space for the last 25 years, but I’d never been before. I went during the slack after-lunch hours on a weekday. Inside, Heritage India is very attractive and comfortable with decor that touches many Indian themes. I chose a seat by the window to watch the passing parade.

The server came over as relaxed and friendly as can be, and I studied the menu enough to know that at lunch they have a choice among 10 platters, three grilled, four curries, and three vegetarian. Each platter comes with rice, naan, and two sides, lentils and a spinach and corn curry. It also includes either an appetizer or a dessert.

I chose the vindaloo curry and went with rice pudding for the dessert.

The vindaloo was hot and spicy, as one would expect, but I was surprised and pleased with the variety of flavors. There’s lots of garlic, ginger, and chili peppers, and also malt vinegar and cardamom? Ground coriander? The sauce is deep and rich and complex. The flavor permeates the ultra-tender lamb and, of course, transforms the rice. And the naan, which arrives fresh, warm, and fragrant, tempers the heat and adds its own buttery and slightly smoky flavor.

In the upper right of the platter are lentils cooked in an earthy sauce, next to palak makai, a sensational mix of spinach and corn. Both of these dishes were mild but thoughtfully seasoned with the same wisdom that had elevated the vindaloo. Both of these were very good, and the palak makai delighted me. That leaves the upper left section of the tray, the rice pudding. I rarely order desserts, but after a bout with a vindaloo, a rice pudding is just the thing, a nice note of sweetness at the end.

I’m enthusiastic, and I’d feel confident ordering any dish there. Hurry over to Heritage India and enjoy the rich, complex flavors of Indian cuisine.

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