Hawaiian Pork

There is no barbecue in Hawaii. They have a lot of Korean barbecue and other things that they call barbecue, but not barbecue as we (I) know it. They do, however, have lots of pork, including whole hog baked in an Imu (dig a hole, start a mesquite fire, cover with rocks to retain heat, cover with banana leaves, throw in the hog, more banana leaves, burlap or a tarp, and cover with dirt). As a practical matter, this means going to a luau such as the excellent Smith Family luau at the Hyatt resort in Poipu, Kauai.After 7 or so hours they retrieve the hog, shred the meat (spreading the juices evenly) and serve. It is very moist and it tastes good. I recommend it.But it is not barbecue. The meat is steamed more than it’s smoked, and the fat doesn’t drip down into the open pit to flavor the meat with pork fat smoke. And there is no char and crispness to the skin.This is by way of explanation rather than criticism. It tastes good. If you are in the neighborhood, you should go to the Smith Family luau. The show is good, the beverages are tasty and flow freely, and the banana cream pie and coconut cake are very dangerous. You will eat more than you should.

• John Tanner’s Barbecue Page Correction:  The luau at the Hyatt is not the Smith Family luau, which was some distance from Poipu. The Hyatt was virtually next door. You may want to minimize driving after a luau. Eric Lee: Looks and sounds great.