Frésco II Mediterranean Cuisine

May 13, 2013

Palmdale, California – It’s been a year since I last visited here. I really enjoyed the food then and was looking for an opportunity to return and do a review. So began the scheduling. A late change in plans nearly crushed any chance to come back before autumn but by re-arranging a visit to another restaurant, I was able to dine here today.

The owners of Frésco II (the other location is in Oxnard, California) are from Brooklyn, New York. In their cooking, they use “only the freshest and finest ingredients, just like our parents and grandparents did.” One explanation for Frésco II’s superb fare is they “infuse the flavors of Greece and the Mediterranean in our innovative style of cooking.” The plated result of their philosophy is what convinced me to return.

A mostly sandy yellow in exterior color, Frésco II sits on a pad at the north side of the Antelope Valley Mall. Beautiful landscaping makes it easy to forget you are in the High Desert. Architecture featuring wood, stone, brick, glass, and stucco, though unique in design compared to the other restaurants in the mall, still looks very warm, very natural.

I purposely planned to arrive before dinner rush. The plan worked; the restaurant was nearly empty of customers when I walked in so I was seated immediately. As you walk in, you’ll notice a well-stocked wine rack on both sides as you enter the foyer. Through the second set of double doors is the hostess station. Behind the station is the main dining area, cramped, yet romantic. To your left is the banquet room. To the right is the bar and lounge. Most weekends there is some sort of entertainment going on such as a comedian or small combo. Check out their website for the schedule. Better than listening to me describe the interior, take the virtual tour and experience it firsthand (almost) yourself.

You will notice four separate, distinct, but integrated personalities: 1) A banquet area for large groups, 2) a dining section that looks cramped yet still intimate, 3) a lounge/bar area, 4) an outdoor patio. This evening I sat in the lounge. I sat for a bit enjoying the different moods of each section of the building. One thing that really caught my attention were the artifact-like models of Greek monuments, figurines, etc., set in an alcove in the brick wall.

In one of the first tableside indications that this was going to be a good meal was the way the water was served. The water? Yes, the water. It is served in a branded highball glass with two thin slices of cucumber. Nice touch but I don’t really like cucumbers. I forgot they do this. Next time I’ll ask for lemon slices instead.

My server was very friendly and knew the menu well. After I placed my order, the bread arrived, homemade from the owner’s mother’s special recipe. The bread is baked fresh daily, sliced, wrapped in a napkin, and delivered soft and warm in a basket. It was very inviting. It tasted like a cross between egg bread and sourdough. Along with the bread comes with a red wine and garlic dip in a small bowl with its own saucer. It took a couple of tries to get the ratio of dip to bread just right, but when it happened, it was a thing of beauty. The red wine cut through the garlic, while the bread nicely reduced the acidity of the red wine. Just about a perfect rendering of all three tastes!

Tonight’s wine selection was a glass of J Lohr “Bay Mist” Riesling from Monterey. It had the flavor of white grape and straddled the fence between sweet and dry. The only way I can describe it is a muted grape flavor, no notes I could detect, followed by a journey through no-man’s-land before the alcohol itself kicked in as I exhaled. I’ve had a nice, long run of good Reislings until today. Kind of disappointed that this one didn’t measure up. Must have been that ‘no-man’s land’. It was as if there was a hole in the flavor.

I also ordered a mixed baby green salad. This is comprised of baby greens with tomatoes, red onion, feta cheese, and olive oil

vinaigrette. The vinaigrette really enhanced the salad, but the feta cheese is what took it up a couple of notches.

My main course this evening was the Greek Lamb Chops ($29). It is served on a large plate. A plateau of garlic mashed potatoes against which the double chops leaned resided on half of the plate. Planted like a flag in the midst of the chops was a sprig of rosemary. The warmth from the chops released a gentle aroma from the rosemary, whetting my appetite further.

The entrée comes with sautéed seasonal vegetables, which today were broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and sweet potato. The vegetables were seasoned so well that you can make a meal off of them alone.

My chops were char grilled, cooked Greek style, and seasoned with lemon garlic and oregano. The only negative? A bit too much charred taste. At times I tasted more char than lamb. Check this out: instead of mint jelly, Frésco offers jalapeño jelly. My mind kept expecting mint, but the jalapeño jelly was an interesting compliment to the lamb. And surprisingly, it was not as hot as you would think.

For desert, I just could not pass up the Homemade Tiramisu ($9). The presentation of this item was the

best I’ve ever seen for tiramisu. It is served on a triangular plate. A dollop of whipped cream crisscrossed with chocolate syrup decorated the plate at each tip of the triangle. The cake itself was layered, and nearly floating on a lake of rum and coffee. It tasted as good as it looked. The flavors of each ingredient were distinct and full-bodied. And they don’t hold back on the rum.

Frésco II adds another dimension to fine dining. I love the fact that their menu is based on family recipes. If presentation of the fare is a promise of the good food to come, rest assured Frésco II more than delivers.

Whether it’s pizza, pasta, steak or salad, or something in between, everyone in your group should find something on the menu that will satisfy them. And whether your group is just you, you and a date or spouse, or a group, Frésco II will make sure you are well taken care of.

Frésco II – 4.75 forks. Very highly recommended. Kali orexi!