Fancy Eats at Leroy and Lewis BBQ

For my birthday this year, I decided to get some Michelin Star rated barbecue. It just so happens that one of the joints is a brick-and-mortar version of the food truck I had visited years ago. And so, my wife and I set out to sample Leroy and Lewis Barbecue, although they have such an expansive menu that trying everything on the first visit is just impossible.

Wanting a traditional BBQ platter, we ordered the Pitmaster’s Platter, billed as a “new School BBQ feast.” Because we had come later in the day, our platter came with a 1/2 pound of Tri Tip rather than the Flat Iron. My wife was a bit skeptical, preferring brisket with her BBQ platters. But one bite of the tri tip- a cut from the bottom sirloin- melted away any apprehension. Lighter than brisket, the mat was cut thinner but maintained all the juiciness you would want. It was like high-end steak meats BBQ, with plenty of smoke and wonderfully rendered fat. It’s easy to find yourself scarfing down the full serving in no time.

Luckily the plate also came with some other traditional items- a generous helping of pulled whole hog and two sausage links of your choice. The whole hog is exactly what you want, slow-cooked with flecks of rub and juice making every bite savory but not overly seasoned. It went particularly well with the mustard BBQ sauce, a tangy, peppery version of the classic South Carolina condiment that leans a bit more on oil than other sauces, leading to a more velvety texture. The servers make sure to chop up a few cracklins to put on top of the pork, and it feels like a lovely throw back.

The sausage, on the other hand, is anything but a nostalgic trip down BBQ lane. We opted for the jalepeno cheese chorizo link and the rotating special which happened to be a Szechuan pepper beef sausage. The first was fantastically greasy with an abundance of spice. The beef links were incredibly beefy, with a few unique bits of seasoning. It tasted great wrapped in potato bread and dipped in the red sauce the joint offers. The sauce appears to be a pretty traditional BBQ sauce, but the tang from the apple cider vinegar and the peppery kick help set it apart from the usual riffraff. To give it some bright color and thicker texture, beets are used to make the unique sauce that has become a signature of Leroy and Lewis.

Another thing that has become linked to the joint- smoked and grilled veggies. Unfortunately they were out of the cauliflower burnt ends that usually come with the platter. Instead, they gave us extra miso glazed carrots, sweet char-flavored “links” sliced like sausage, perfect for dipping into the red sauce. It’s always nice when a joint has these kinds of offerings, and though we didn’t get to try them, Leroy and Lewis also does mushrooms, chicken fried beets, and onion rings. A vegetarian can make a real meal here.

BUT, our platter wasn’t done! It also came with four large sides, emphasis on LARGE. Like any good whole hog joint, Leroy and Lewis offers pork hash and rice. The gravy isn’t nearly as rich as I have had, but that’s a good thing! A lot of folks don’t like a hash that has too much organ meat used to make the gravy. Instead, the dish tastes flavorful, with a nice subtle smoked pork taste throughout. If that doesn’t fill you up, the giant Texas Red Chili Frito Pie will! Made with beef (NO BEANS) and spices, the chili feels like the kind of thing you’d make on the campfire, adding a bit of heat to give it a real kick. It honestly could have a been a meal by itself!

Thankfully, Leroy and Lewis also add to their platter two lighter sides- a kale Caesar claw and kimchi. I have long been on the side of not really like coleslaw that much, finding the dish a bit too sweet. I’ve made my own tangy slaws that have worked, but they usually aren’t creamy. But Leroy and Lewis make this one work by giving us a creamy bit of shredded veggies with a classic Caesar taste. The kimchi would have fit in well at a Korean restaurant, with the tangy, vinegary crunch offering a lovely pallet cleanse during the meat-heavy meal. We also added a medium side of the Grain-bowl salad- a bright and vinegar-dressed side of pickled veggies and grains. It was another way to cut through and compliment the fattier offerings on the plate

To round out our meal, we ordered the Hog Fat cornbread which came with strawberry-poblano butter and the banana pudding tiramisu. The cornbread was made with blue cornmeal, giving it a distinct look, and the butter elevated the dish beyond what you may typically get with cornbread. It was a stand-out, and in this meal, that’s impressive, and its plating really hints at those finer dining aspirations. Finally, the tiramisu was strong- a bit too strong for my wife at first- but it again takes a familiar dish and spins it in a way that is wholly unique. I found myself greedily eating it, and I do not have a sweet tooth. The bananas and the strong coffee-dipped ladyfingers compliment each other and ensure the dish remains balanced.

Leroy and Lewis gave me one of my favorite meals I’ve had in this state. Every part of our meal was handled with extreme care, and it felt like an experience we would not get at other BBQ joints. I’ve left so many establishments feeling a bit heavy or even meat drunk, but the lightness of the tri-tip and inclusion of so many tasty veggies led to a more satisfying fullness. I’ve often talked about how Texas BBQ has fused with so many cultures from folks who have immigrated here, and I will continue to advocate that those fusions are a good thing! And now it seems like Texas BBQ has reached its next evolution, fusing with the foodie culture and fine dining experiences places like Austin are becoming famous for. In other words, the stars may be bright, but the future of barbecue is brighter (clap clap clap) DEEP IN THE HEART OF TEXAS.