County Smoak, Lynchburg, Virginia

After Allman’s and the Woodruff Cafe, I rushed down toward Lynchburg to County Smoak to determined whether it cooks only with wood and, more important, to meet with Mike Powers, a dedicated Road Fooder. Mike had driven down from Charlottesville to meet me, and while snow prevented a connection at the Woodruff Cafe, we did catch our fallback at County Smoak.

It’s a smallish place with a good-sized outdoor area, and a separate structure for cooking. Ken and Jessica Hess opened the place with an eye to honoring and reviving Virginia barbecue traditions; thus the archaic spelling of “Smoak.” Mike and I went in, studied the menu and coordinated our plans. But before we get to the food, a word about Mike.

Now doesn’t he look like the sort of person with whom you want to share a meal? I mentioned that Mike’s a dedicated Road Fooder. Road Food is a term coined by Jane and Michael Stern, who began collecting non-chain restaurants that serve authentic local food all around the US. Authenticity is not Washington’s strong point, and we’re a bit of a Road Food desert, but Virginia has lots of places — the Woodruff Cafe is one, and the Mason Dixon Cafe in Fredericksburg and the Blue and White in Alexandria leap to mind as examples. The Sterns first published a book of places in 1977, and have expanded and revised it over the years. Mike Powers has a much used current copy in which he has checked off the 750-plus places he’s tried. Yes, 750. Mike hit 15(!) in one day by taking a tasting menu approach with two Big Hungry Boys, his teenage cousins, on hand to bat cleanup.

Now, on to the food. I ordered a two-meat plate ($16), and chose the two traditional Virginia meats, pork and chicken. As you can see, I asked for dark meat. Always ask for dark meat. For sides, I reflexively ordered collard greens and, at the urging of the cashier, macaroni and cheese.

Mike ordered everything else on the menu. Well, not really, but he did order a whole bunch of stuff with an eye to taking a lot back to Charlottesville. He ordered ribs,

turkey, brisket, and a pork sandwich (not shown), and a big serving of macaroni and cheese with chopped brisket mixed in.

Both the pork and the chicken were tender and with a good smoke flavor. The pork had been pulled and then chopped and tossed with a sauce that complimented rather than overshadowed the meat. This is good pork barbecue. As you can see, I’d asked for dark meat. Always ask for dark meat and you’ll never, or very rarely, be subjected to dried out chicken, and you’ll get a better smoke flavor. The chicken had been marinated in or coated with a good white sauce, and was the better for it. Excellent.

The ribs were nice and tender, and had a light smoke flavor and a glaze that mainly satisfied the urge to get your fingers all messy, which is one of the reasons for ribs’ popularity. The turkey was good, and the brisket had a very nice smoke flavor, but was from the lean end and, as is common with lean brisket, a bit chewy. Perhaps the supply chain has disrupted moist-end availability. Mike was enthusiastic about the macaroni and cheese with brisket, and chopping lean brisket usually helps. I enjoyed my greens and macaroni and cheese, and I’d probably have more details if I hadn’t been enjoying talking with Mike so much.

As I indicated up front, my reason for being in Lynchburg was word from Dan Levine that a friend had reported that County Smoak cooks True ‘Cue, with only wood for heat. I was there to confirm that, and certify County Smoak on behalf of the Campaign for Real Barbecue. So I went out to the pits to look and chat, and Mike came with me to see first hand an important culinary event fit for regaling his grandchildren with tales of the moment.

It turns out that County Smoak is a hybrid, at least for now. They cook the large meat — pork and briskets — exclusively with wood, but they cook ribs and chicken on a big gas-assisted grill, a grill big enough for those times they need to cook 60 or so chickens for an event. That created a quandary. I put in an emergency call to the Godfather, who said that it was up to me, but noted that the large meat is what’s really important. I decided to temper the wind to the shorn lamb and verified County Smoak.

That was a good decision. It turns out that Ken Hess had always cooked with wood, and the big gas-assisted cooker was attached to the kitchen trailer they needed to get started. It was a temporary expedient while he waits … and waits on the dread supply chain for a larger (1,000 gallon) wood cooker. As it is, Ken is serious about getting a good wood flavor, and only uses the gas to get the fire started. The meat actually is cooked entirely with wood and charcoal. That accounts for the smokiness of the ribs and chicken — that really exceptional chicken.

I plan to check County Smoak out again next time I head down US 29. I really liked the pork and chicken, and I’d like to check the brisket again, if I can resist the pork and chicken. Ken and Jessica Hess have created a real addition to barbecue in Virginia, with a reliance on Virginia ingredients and traditions. You should try Country Smoak for yourself. It’s worth a detour.

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