Clark Crew Barbecue, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

After a truly outstanding steak dinner at the Cattlemen’s, Nancy and I headed to the National Hotel, checked in, had a good night’s sleep, and rose early to fulfill our immediate purpose in coming to Oklahoma City. We’re on a project to do self-guided/mapped 10k walks in all 50 states.

I’ll get to the food, but I really have to say how impressed we were by Oklahoma City — the hotel, the National,

and the Memorial,

I’d seen it before, including at night in the winter, but I’d never noticed that the 9:01 “before” entrance took you down steps, while the 9:03 “after the explosion” exit took you out by ramp back into the wounded city. That moved me, and recalled my time in Oklahoma City on an unrelated investigation. The bombing was all anyone talked about, much as my time in New Orleans a few months after Katrina. On the day of the bombing, I had been on temporary assignment to the White House Counsel’s office, and my office was situated at the closest spot to the White House itself you could place a truck full of explosives. I didn’t worry, of course, because that sort of thing never happens … until it actually does. Being with people who lived through the experience brings it home.

But we loved our walk. We went into the Capitol building and got a lovely impromptu tour of the House chamber from an employee. It has a unique seating arrangement. We were impressed by the cleanliness and vitality of the city. By the end of the walk we were tired and hungry and went straight to Clark Crew BBQ to refresh and recover.

I chose Clark Crew on the advice of Ryan Cooper of The Smoke Sheet. When we are in Kansas City as a base fo Nebraska and Kansas state capital walks, of all the barbecue places in Kansas City, Ryan had recommended Chef J. No one I know had ever heard of it, but wow! Superb! Chef J recently was named the best barbecue place in Kansas City.

So Nancy and I drove out to Clark Crew at 3510 NW Expressway. That sounds straightforward, but use your GPS.

Now that’s a big barbecue place. We entered and looked around at the large, welcoming main dining room with a well-stocked bar,

a side room or two, and an open kitchen, a nice touch.

We sat and within minutes two things endeared me to Clark Crew. First, our excellent server came by for drink orders, and I asked for a big glass of water and a small local IPA, a COOP F5. They brought me a large beer by mistake.

I forgave them. It refreshed both my body and my spirit. I didn’t drink it all, as I was driving, but what a nice start.

The second thing I loved occurred when a man strode over to the head of the dining room and bellowed — I mean bellowed, “Boomer!” To which everyone but Nancy and I yelled “Sooner!” I thought about yelling, “Roll Tide!” in honor of our sharing Jalen Hurts, but stayed my eager voice. I do love such positive and enthusiastic local pride and team spirit. They mark a sense of community, and help unite disparate people.

Our server returned and Nancy ordered a cup of brisket chili ($5) , which came with a big old hunk of cornbread,

and the Give ’em the Bird Salad ($14), which also came with cornbread.

That’s smoked turkey and crumbled bacon on the salad. Nancy was impressed by the salad. The bacon was crisp, the turkey was moist with a light layer of smoke, and the salad was packed with goodies, including particularly flavorful croutons.

The most popular order at Clark Crew is the burnt ends. I thought about ordering them, but in my experience Oklahoma barbecue runs to sweet sauces, and too many places everywhere “burn” the meat by coating it with sugars to boost caramelization artificially — and get carbonization. I instead ordered a two-meat tray ($22) with the basics, brisket and pork. For sides I chose potato salad — I had thought about macaroni and cheese but I was on a diet — and fried okra, The tray came with corn bread.

We were close to Texas, so I expected the brisket to be very good and the pork to be just okay.

I was wrong. (It does happen.) Clark Crew cooks some remarkably good pork, the best pork I’ve had in the western half of the United States. (I haven’t tried Hank’s in Denver.) The brisket, like the pork, was tender and moist, and it had a smoky flavor. But it was from the lean end, which is less forgiving than nice fatty pork shoulders. I blame myself, and perhaps the momentary distraction of the COOP F5. I really should have specified moist end. It makes such a difference. As it was, the brisket was tasty, but lean. I’d love to get back for some moist. I’ll bet its star quality.

Star quality certainly applied to the corn bread that accompanied both our orders and the chili. Clark Crew’s corn bread is wonderful, the very best corn bread that I can remember that wasn’t cooked with bacon grease in cast iron. The flavor and texture are outstanding. You really need to try some. Although the pieces are huge, I finished two, and Nancy actually ate all of hers, and Nancy never eats all her bread. 

The potato salad, on the other hand, was as badly overdressed as it looks. The dressing drowned out the potato flavor. The fried okra, on the other hand, was quite good, well fried and nicely seasoned. Oklahoma City definitely is solidly in the Good Fried Okra Belt. 

Ah, I forgot the brisket chili! It was well seasoned, and had a nice little kick to it. It was very welcome after the disappointing chili at Hill Country. I added some of my brisket, and made it even better.  

Aside from my irritation at myself for failing to order moist brisket, our meal at Clark Crew was a joy. If you’re in Oklahoma City, and you really should visit, make it a point to eat at Clark Crew. It’s a fun place, and the staff there will take good care of you. Try that pork, and be sure to order moist brisket, and order some chili, if only to get that extra piece of corn bread. And get ready to yell, “Sooner!”

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