Bub and Pop’s, Downtown, Washington, DC

I recently got together with our Senior Deli Correspondent Les Wexler for lunch again. (You’ll remember our two large pizzas at Frank Pepe’s and the sandwiches — a pastrami and a braunschweiger — we’d split at Stachowski’s.) For this lunch we settled on Bub and Pop’s, which is huddled in an English basement at 1815 M Street, Northwest, an odd block of smaller places wedged between the lobbyists of K Street and the eclectic Dupont.

Bub and Pop’s is Chef John Taub’s homage to his grandparents, Mae and Irv Wagner, who grew up in South Philly, fell in love, got married, and, when Pop returned from World War II with medals for valor, opened a small grocery/sandwich shop. John found his way to Washington, opened Bub and Pop’s, and started selling Philadelphia-style sandwiches. The world beat a path to his door and showered — and continues to shower — Bub and Pop’s with local and national honors. My cousin-by-marriage, Murray Johnston (he married into the Griffin pro-Bill’s/Marty’s branch of the family) and I often split sandwiches there, usually pork and broccoli rabe, Italian, roast beef, or brisket (braised). There was a temporary closure after John’s brother, Staff Sgt. Peter Taub, gave his life in our service in Afghanistan, which we honor.

Bub and Pop’s offers half sandwiches for $12, which is a good deal, especially with a four percent discount for paying with cash. The half sandwiches are large enough to make a meal. A whole sandwich runs $24, which is a lot for a sandwich, and a whole lot for a lunch, but if you go to Bub and Pop’s with someone else, federal law requires that you each get a whole sandwich and share halves. Or maybe it’s the Constitution, or maybe just Guy Law, but regardless, it’s mandatory.

Les and I arrived and noted that Bub and Pop’s currently is carryout only. There were, however, tables set in the curb lane. We agreed to share a cheesesteak and a roast pork and broccoli rabe with hot peppers. It was renamed the Philly Special after a hazelnut gremolata was added for a Guy Fieri episode. After we ordered, Les and I sat at a table immediately outside Bub and Pop’s to wait for our sandwiches. I checked my iPhone and was surprised to be offered wifi access to the wifi at Camelot, just a couple of doors down. Camelot is a gentlemen’s club of the sort that no gentleman would enter, or so I’ve heard. Les and I kept our attention focused on the food and the task before us.

And a task it is. That’s a large cheesesteak.

I didn’t have to use the Pano feature of my iPhone to get the whole thing in, but this sandwich was over a foot long. I tried to get a good side shot, but the sandwich was dripping and the wind was blowing things about, but this may help.

Or it may not. The meat was chopped thoroughly, but not fine enough to impair the texture, and the provolone (the only choice) and onions were spread evenly throughout. This was a well constructed sandwich, and it tasted very good.

I do have a couple of positive suggestions for diners and for Bub and Pop’s and all cheesesteak purveyors. I’d like to see a switch to Cooper sharp cheese, as currently favored by most elite Philly cheesesteak places. See here. My nephew, Michael, found some Cooper sharp in a Southern Maryland grocery, and used it for burgers. I was very impressed. It has a wonderful melting quality of American cheese, but with much, much more flavor. I also thought it could have used more pepper, but I think that about most dishes.

Also, the roll held up well, but was too soft. This may have been a function of wrapping it in foil rather than in paper, and also that there was a several-minute wait while it steamed before I unwrapped it. Les and I ordered separately to make splitting the bill easier. By the time we opened the sandwiches and split them, any crunch in the crust was long gone. Our bad. Definitely, order your sandwiches all at once.

Saving the best (in my opinion) for last, here’s half of the Philly special.

A thing of beauty is a joy forever. The pork was tender, rich, and beautifully seasoned, and the broccoli rabe, ah, would that I could make prose soar. It was cooked perfectly, enough to retain a pleasing texture. The pork and the broccoli rabe mixed in with the garlic, parsley, and lemon zest of the gremolata so that the sandwich just burst with flavor. As with the cheesesteak, the roll had softened with the wait wrapped in foil, but still, the pork and broccoli rabe was a sensational sandwich.

There you have it — a great spot for a sandwich, one that will be even better when they can move inside.

They may not. At dinner, the personality of Bub and Pop’s undergoes a dramatic transformation into Supper at Bub’s. From their website,

“Supper at Bub’s is Bub and Pop’s intimate multi course tasting menu experience – located inside of our world-famous sandwich shop. Settle in for an evening featuring the cuisine of Chef Jonathan Taub. Inspired by nature and rooted in French technique, courses will change reflecting seasonal products utilizing ingredients from all over the world – prepared with love.”

Curated libations are included. Supper at Bub’s is served on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings, by reservation (email supperatbubs@yahoo.com.) That’ll run you $200 per person, plus tax and tip.

Definitely go to Bub and Pop’s for a magnificent lunch, and let me know if you go for supper.

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