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BBQ Quest 2016
To get some background on this trip, last year my buddy Dakota and I went on a BBQ quest in our home state of Oklahoma. We started in Shawnee at Van’s Pig Stand. Then we hit Oklahoma City and went to Leo’s and Iron Star Urban BBQ (reviews for all three of these joints coming soon!). It was a decent trip, and the cue was pretty good. But this year I wanted to do something different. I had always heard that Texas BBQ was simply the best. So I did what I do best- I did a crap-ton of research. In the end I narrowed down 10 joints in the Austin area, with a particular focus on Lockhart– The Official BBQ Capital of Texas. Of course, we didn’t eat at every single one, but I wanted to provide us some options. We asked our friend Brock if he wanted to go with us. He has a friend, Aaron, who lives around that area so our fellowship was complete! We would embark on the journey early July.
First- big props to Aaron’s roomie who braved the lines at Franklin BBQ in Austin the day before. It truly freed our schedule for the following day. Unfortunately, due to all of hectic nature of Texas during our quest- the tragic shooting had just taken place in Dallas- traffic was terrible and cost us two extra hours. So we spent 7-8 hours in a fairly hot car salivating for, what we had been told, was the best BBQ in Texas. When we finally got there we were greeted with this glorious sight-
That bounty consists of 2 pounds of brisket, a pound of pulled pork, a pound of pork ribs, and four sausage links. Before going any further, here’s what Aaron had to say about the brisket-
And there are no words to describe how good Franklin is. The texture of the brisket alone sets them apart.- Aaron
He was completely right. The fat was beautifully rendered, the smoke flavor bold, yet complimentary, and the simple rub- salt and pepper- really let the meat do the talking. The slices just melted in my mouth. According to Texas Monthly this is due to the type of meat Franklin acquires to smoke for his customers. Whatever the reason is, the brisket was easily the best of the trip. I cannot stress enough how good the meat really was. Or, as Dakota put it-
[Franklin was a] second sexual awakening.- Dakota
And the brisket was not the only meat that shined. The sausage was so delicious, with a perfect mix of beef and pork. It was little heavy-most sausage is to me- but it really brought a perfect texture to the palate, along with peppery kick. Out of all of the sausage we ate, this was the only one I finished. Additionally, the pulled pork was great too. If you live in Oklahoma- and many other regions in the United States- you might be used to your pulled pork slathered in sweet or sometimes vinegary sauces. This pulled pork did not need any sauce, and the smoke/rub combination, in addition what tasted like a splash of vinegar, rendered the pork tender and full of flavor.
Finally, we come to the pork ribs. They were better than any ribs I have had in Oklahoma, and again used a simpler rub to produce a salt and peppery taste which blended seamlessly with the smoke flavor. The theme with all of the meats is that you are tasting the MEAT. Yes the smoke and rubs help bring out that flavor, but by no means are you just enjoying good seasonings. They are used to bring out the best in the meat.
I would be remiss if I did not include the sides- The potato salad was a stand-out of the trip, with the potatoes having a delicious vinegar kick to them. The pinto beans were no slouch either, and the sauce the beans simmered in was seasoned just right. Additionally the onions were soft and sweet, and the pickles were, well, pickles. All-in-all our first meal was super satisfying, and had me worried that the following day just would not hold up.
We left Aaron’s and checked into our hotel in Lockhart. Literally right next to our hotel was Chisholm Trail, one of the joints on my list. As soon as Aaron came to town, we walked over and dove headfirst into BBQ land
The best part about starting here was getting used to the style of BBQ joints in the area. We started out cafeteria style picking our sides- three to be exact- and then we got to the cutting block. There the pitmaster asked us what cuts we wanted. All of us-except Dakota- got the three meat plate with brisket, sausage, and a rib. This brings me to my favorite part about this joint- the value. A three meat platter at most places will run around twenty dollars without a drink. With a drink, plus cheese, and three sides my ticket was around sixteen bucks.
The stand-out of this meal was the sausage. Chisholm Trail’s links tasted more like breakfast sausage, but the change was a welcome one. It wasn’t nearly as greasy as sausage tends to be, and it had a great snap to it.
[Chisholm Trail] had the best breakfast sausage I’ve ever eaten.- Aaron
The brisket was really good as well, with the fat rendered expertly and more complex rub adding to the flavor. We were actually a little surprised how well it held up after Franklin. In addition, it was still better brisket than the joints in Oklahoma tend to offer. Once again, the meat was on display with the brisket, and it quite tender. The pork rib had really good smoke flavor, but had a little more chew than I prefer. The rub seemed fairly simple, and produced a nice peppery flavor.
For my sides I had this really delicious sauerkraut with the sausage in it, along with some decent green beans. Additionally I had bread, cheese, pickles, and onions which are traditionally used to make mini-sandwiches with the meat. I would tear a piece of bread, get some accoutrements and a bit of meat, then dip the whole thing in sauce- which was decent at this joint, with a semi-sweet smoky flavor. If you haven’t had cue like this I highly recommend it. Brock had this odd sweet potato salad(?) If anyone can tell me what it’s called that would be appreciated.
After a brief visit to the park in the area- not to mention the compressor in the vehicle going out- we decided to go to Black’s BBQ. It was our first line, but the owners provided free water, and our wait was surprisingly short. Once we got inside, the narrow hallway led directly to the sides area. This time I was not interested in sides, and I just grabbed some sweet pickles, peach cobbler and a Shiner Prickly Pear beer. When I got to the chopping block I ordered a quarter pound of brisket. Then I spied an absolutely massive (about a pound and a half) beef rib and immediately ordered one. All in all, this was my most expensive meal. I grabbed some cheese, onions, and bread and sat down to eat my meal.
The beef rib might be my favorite thing I have ever eaten. It was almost like meat butter- it had some chew, not nearly as much as I was expecting. Instead I got super tender, and smokey beef flavor accompanied by a fairly sweet, yet peppery, rub. Words cannot describe just how RICH that flavor was. It was like eating the best of BBQ with the best of steak.
The brisket was also heavenly. The slices were just a bit thicker than Chisholm Trail, but the flavor and tenderness were just off the charts. The rub did have a bit of sweetness to it, but not at the expense of the saltier elements of the brisket. Once again, it was perfectly smoked, tender, and juicy. The sauce had a decent peppery kick to it, but was very much a tomato based sauce. Side note- The peach cobbler was pretty damn good too.
Brock and Dakota also ordered turkey, and had varying opinions regarding their choice. Dakota felt that it was a bit too dry, while Brock- and having a piece myself- thought it had a pretty good ratio of dry to moist. Both agreed that the smoke flavor, along with the pepper rub, produced a fairly delicious cut of meat. Aaron had the garlic sausage, which had great snap and a delicious garlicky flavor. For my taste it was probably the heaviest sausage of the trip, but still one I would recommend.
We bid Aaron, and Lockhart, a fond farewell but our journey was not yet complete. We had one more stop- The Pecan Lodge in Dallas. The traffic was awful, and it was very difficult to navigate. But when we got there we ordered the Trough, a heaping pile meat meant to be shared between 4-5 people. Sadly they had sold out of the beef rib which usually accompanies the plate. Instead we got more brisket (of course). I also ordered a side of mac and cheese, just to have a palate cleanser of sorts.
Hard to get to, almost died, totally worth it.– Dakota
The first thing that struck me was the size of the brisket slices. They were the thickest slices I have ever seen. Then we tasted some. Once again we were completely blown away. In addition to being tender, juicy, and smokey, the rub- and likely the wood used to smoke the meat- produced a sweet flavor with a hint of almost citrus-like sourness. The meat was still heavily featured, but this was easily the best rub we had eaten.
Until we tried the pork ribs. Though it lacked the oddly delicious sour kick of the brisket, the ribs were sweet, savory, tender, and even caramelized on top and bottom. However, this meat is taken to the next level when dipping a piece into Pecan Lodge’s hot vinegar sauce. I brought some home and my wife, who was raised partly in both Texas and North Carolina, told me it was similar to the sauces she ate on the east coast. That vinegary kick with the heat made the pork ribs simply the best I had ever eaten- although I admit do need to go to Kansas City and Memphis for that really mean something.
The pulled pork was also just out of this world! Again, the rub was sweet, but the caramelized rub just made the meat transcendent. It too went well with the hot vinegar sauce, and the two made for a smokey pile of heaven. Additionally the sausage had a delicious heat to them. It was not quite the best sausage I ate during the trip, but I do think they had the best smoke flavor out of all the sausage we had on the journey. Again, I haven’t tried their beef rib, but I recommend eating the Trough at Pecan Lodge as the best way to experience this establishment.
Lest I forget the mac and cheese. Holy crap guys this was the best side of the quest! It had hatch green chilies and bacon mixed in, providing a sweet, cheesy, savory, and dare I say, perfect boat of ooey gooey awesomeness. I only ordered a small side, but I am pretty sure I could eat a whole pint.
All in all it was an AMAZING experience. And for our next journey I am planning to try and snag some turkey at Franklin, going to Kreuz Market, and maybe sampling one of the other places in Austin. For our awards ceremony, Franklin took Best Brisket and Sausage, while Pecan Lodge took Best Pork Rib, Pulled Pork, Sauce, and Side. It’s worth noting that Franklin took runner up in each of those categories, except for sauce (next time I look forward to trying some of Franklin’s famous sauce). Black’s took Best Joint (and aesthetic award) and, by default Best Beef Rib. Chisholm Trail snagged an award for Best Value. Franklin also ended up with the coveted Best Plate o’ Meat award for providing the best overall sampling of BBQ. Brisket is king in Texas, so it is only fitting that award goes to the king of brisket.
Till next time, my BBQuesters!
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