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BBQ in BCS- Martin’s

Jan 17, 2018
2 min read

Add one more joint to the pile, and a fine one at that. Martin’s in Bryan is fantastic blend of Central and Eastern Texas fare, acting much more like a cafe than a butcher shop. However the quality of meats is still high, the service is fantastic, and the sides are among the best you will have in the city. Also, the value is pretty fantastic. For 13.50 I got the 4 meat, 2 side plate with brisket, sliced pork, sausage, and pork ribs for my meat and pinto beans and German potatoes as my side. As a cherry on top, this joint has been owned by the same family since 1925, giving it some history, and the inside is adorned with memorabilia from its many years of service.

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First, I noticed the pork and the ribs had some red ketchup based sauce on them. I was a bit worried, but upon my first bite into the sliced pork, my fears were abated. The sauce was slightly sweet smokey, and complimented the meat. Starting with the sliced pork, I noticed that this was an odd kind of meat to serve. The texture was close to thin brisket, but the flavor was distinctly pork.

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But you can already see my favorite part of the plate- the sauce and the drippings combine together at the bottom to create a truly special and tasty dip for the meat. The pork though was juicy and benefited heavily from this dip. I instantly dug into the German potatoes and was immediately wowed. Soft, mashed, buttery, and full of flavor from drippings, this was the perfect side. The seasonings used help make it a stand out. The only danger is taking too long to eat it will result in it drying out a bit.

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The brisket was next, and once again Martin’s impressed. Perhaps the bark and rub could have a bit more salt, but honestly this was still well smoked, high quality brisket. The beef flavor was prominent, and the dip accentuated the smokey flavor. Moving on the sausage, I found the texture to be a bit commercial, but the lean to fat ratio was pleasant, making this a very approachable, if a bit tame, sausage.

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Next came the ribs and boy howdy. The sauce added the PERFECT amount of sweetness to the meat. These were meaty ribs that had appropriate chew, but also pulled off the bone with ease, a delicate balance to be sure. Much like the brisket, this seemed to lack a pinch of salt, but it was nice to find ribs this juicy. Finally I tried the pinto beans, cooked with meat in them. They were easily the most flavorful beans I have had in town, and they were well seasoned, with the cumin flavor especially pronounced, and perfectly cooked.

Although tied with Kreuz in town with an 8.8 overall, I’d give this joint my recommendation for visiting the BCS area. Granted it has more sauce than many will like, but when it’s done this well, it’s hard to complain. The joint has history, it’s a local joint, and the value is off the charts. I have two more places to frequent, but it’s hard seeing ANYTHING in town topping this.

 
 
 

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