Al Carbon Wood Fire Cuisine, Rockville, Montgomery County, Maryland

A while back, I drove out to Rockville to try the pastrami sandwich at Corned Beef King (and was delighted). Just as I’d exited the warehousing area in which Corned Beef King holds court, I noticed Al Carbon at 200 Park Road, mainly for its magnificent wood pile.

Could this be another source of wood-cooked barbecue for me to certify on behalf of the Campaign for Real Barbecue? I went in and determined that, although they cook exclusively with wood, they don’t offer the large cuts like pork shoulder and brisket that define barbecue. I sighed and went my way.

Later, however, the Fates led me back to the area when Nancy and I had Ella and Lily for a weekend. We took them out to ZavaZone, a ginormous indoor trampoline and climbing/adventure park for kids. My job was to go somewhere and feed myself (my skill set), and also pick up something for Nancy. Al Carbon was only six or seven minutes away, so I drove over and parked in their lot for an early lunch.

As the exterior suggests, Al Carbon, or at least the building, has seen a lot of years come and go and, like me, shows some wear and tear. But it’s clean, roomy and cheerful inside.

I chose a seat inside. Al Carbon also offers some outside seating off to the side, but that day was too windy. A server came right over, greeted me with a smile, and handed me a menu. She presently brought a glass of water. I was in a moderate hurry, and without studying the menu asked what she recommended. After some conversation, she suggested the Carne Envara ($13.95), which I ordered. After she walked away, I noticed the Salvadorean flag on the wall, and went up to the counter and added a pupusa — pork and cheese. ($2.50)

First came the pupusa.

It came with curtido, a cabbage salad with light tomato dressing. The pupusa was quite large, and just look at that caramelization — and that lacy bit of toasted cheese on the upper left. This was a treat.

Here’s the carne envara, a mighty portion of grilled meat and vegetables,and just $13.95.

It also arrived accompanied by rice and beans and five arepitas with crema.

Arepitas are the cute little cousins of arepas, cornmeal patties stuffed with meats and vegetables. The tiny arepitas are unstuffed fried corn patties. Think of hushpuppies made with no flour. They were light, delicate, and utterly delicious. They brought back fond memories of the hot water cornbread we had when I was growing up, the perfect accompaniment to a summer vegetable dinner.

Back to the entree. As you can see, it was a formidable kabab with slices of skirt steak and chicken interspersed with onions, zucchini, and peppers. The meats and vegetables boasted good seasoning and that wonderful embracing smoke flavor. The beans and rice also were tasty, although I would have preferred more onion and garlic in the beans. It was a fine meal, easily enough for two people, especially with the arepitas and the pupusa.

I didn’t neglect Nancy. She wanted some vegetabIes for lunch, and the server seemed perfectly amenable to putting together an off-menu dish, a grilled vegetables quesadilla or such. I put off the decision until I’d eaten, and then ordered a salad with chicken for her, and also brought along my leftovers, a good third of the carne envara, with most of the vegetables and chicken.

I returned to ZavaZone in good time to watch Ella and Lily perform athletic prodigies on various contraptions, ultra-steep slides, and tethered climbing equipment. They had a blast, and enthusiastically helped Nancy with her salad and my leftovers, as well as their own lunches and snacks.

It was a grand morning and a fine meal. Service was quick and friendly, and they had no hesitation at all about special requests. And you get abundant quality and quantity for a very affordable price. I heartily recommend that you try Al Carbon.

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